Design Of Striped Tongue Shoe Shoe Last

      男舌式25#（二型半）皮鞋楦，楦底样长265㎜，楦跖围236㎜，放余量20㎜，胶粘工艺，牛全粒面革，跟高20～30㎜。

      一  部件计算及定位

The upper part of a striped tongue leather shoe is divided into two parts: a cover (or a cover), a long round piece (which can be divided into two parts, a round bar and a rear middle support), a shoe tongue, a leather outboard, a leather strip or other decorative parts, etc., and a total of six parts.

There are fourteen positioning points, including the length of the front, the length of the front, the length of the mouth, the width of the mouth, the height of the outer ankle, the height of the back seam, the width and length of the stripe, the location of the rubber cloth, the location of the outgoing catch, the lower position, the length and width of the tongue, and so on.

1. the length of the front Gang: front length = last bottom length x 63%=265 * * 0.63=167

2. the length of the front wall: the length of the front side: the last bottom is 10%=265 0.10=26.5.

3. door length points: mouth length = last bottom length x 40%=265 * * 0.40=106

4. door width point: method of calculation: width of mouth door = last metatarsal * 17%=236 * * 0.17=40 *

Experiential method: last two sides to 3 points.

5. external ankle height: 47.

6. the height of the middle seam is 61.

7. shoe tongue design:

8. outsourcing and Design: the width is 50, the width is 70.

9. stripe design: the lower end exceeds the gate location 10~12 or more.

10. rubber band position: 12~13 cm from the middle of the back, 15 or more from the back of the tongue, and the width of the rubber cloth depends on the size of the rubber cloth, usually 16~20.

11. the position of the middle help line: the first one, the internal and external ankle is broken.

Second, the medial malleolus is broken and the lateral malleolus keeps open.

The third is that the internal and external ankles are kept open.

      二  描画部件轮廓线

1. the contour design of the cover is very important. It is the face of the tongue type leather shoes. The front contour should be in harmony with the last body. The front, middle and rear parts of the cover line should be beautiful and accurate.

2. stripe design is an important decorative part of this style with distinctive features.

3. the outline of the rubber band covered by the tongue should be clearly marked.

4., if you use the edge wrapping process, you should draw a clear picture, generally help the upper part of the upper part of the contour line approximate to the straight line; the first half part is connected with the rubber cloth, and the curvature is larger.

5. the location of the cover must pay attention to the difference between the design size and the actual size of the shoe.

       三  制作种子样板

(1) retain the marking points on the front side of the stripe.

(2) strictly remove the rubber cloth seed template.

(3) if there are other decorations or decorative pads on the stripe, the marking points should also be retained.