Technical Knowledge Of Leather Shoes
Leather shoes are made from leather or all leather, and are equipped with shoes for main heels, inner Baotou and hooks. There are many ways to classify leather shoes. They are divided into daily leather shoes, sports leather shoes, labor protection leather shoes and military leather shoes, and medical orthopedic leather shoes specially designed for abnormal feet. According to the pattern, there are mainly ears, tongue, shallow mouth, boots and leather shoes. The boots are divided into high waist, half tube and high tube. There are various sizes (shoe numbers) and fatness (fat and lean) for various styles to meet the needs of various foot types and consumers.
简史 皮鞋是随着革的出现发展起来的。远古时代,人类靠游猎生活,将兽皮裹在脚上,以防止外界恶劣环境的侵害。公元前1450年的古埃及墓室的壁画,反映了古代手工制作皮凉鞋的情景。中国古代称皮鞋为革履,现存实物有湖南长沙楚墓出土的距今2300多年前的革履,是用粗制的革缝合而成。手工制作皮鞋的经验世代相传,逐步发展成为专门的技艺。18世纪开始,皮鞋生产向大工场和连续生产方向发展。19世纪出现制皮鞋专用机械。1858年,美国L.R.布莱克发明透缝绱底法和内线机,之后由美国G.麦凯加以改进,这种方法和机器一直沿用至今。1864年,缝纫机批量生产,随之在皮鞋生产中应用。1875年缝沿条机的出现和1883年绷帮机的问世,使繁重的手工缝条和绷帮操作由机器代替。20世纪初期,线缝皮鞋基本实现机械化生产,生产效率有很大提高,但生产工艺变化不大。1910年出现的胶粘绱底法,在第二次世界大战后迅速发展,从而实现由预成型部件装配化生产皮鞋,这种方法现已广泛采用。1935年欧洲开始用模压硫化法生产皮鞋。60年代初期注塑皮鞋问世,发展了不用线缝绱底的方法。1987年中国生产皮鞋3.09亿双,其中胶粘皮鞋占58.9%,线缝皮鞋占34.1%,模压硫化皮鞋占4.6%,注塑皮鞋占2.4%。
The main components of leather shoes usually include upper, sole, heel, inner Baotou and main heels.
Shoe upper: stitched from front, back and tongue. The front part corresponds to the front part of the foot and the active part of the metatarsophalangeal joint. It is flexed, stretched, extruded and rubbed under the action of the foot. The heel part of the back is processed into a fixed shape similar to the heel. When walking and wearing leather shoes, the back band is also flexed and stretched. The front and rear sides are usually sutured on the sides of the arch of the arch. The upper part of the shoe plays the role of wrapping up the foot and supporting the arch of the arch. The general leather shoes are lined with lining to reinforce the upper and avoid wear, and absorb part of the sweat.
2. Soles: outsole, insole, semi insole, hook, cushion and filling core, which can isolate feet and floors, and cushion the ground to the feet. The outsole has direct contact with the ground, subjected to various functions such as bending, extrusion, friction and external environment. The inner bottom directly bears the weight of the human body and pfers the gravity to the sole and heel. The inner sole is affected by bending, extrusion and friction. It is also affected by the sweat and the humidity and temperature inside the shoe. The center is fixed between the bottom and the bottom of the leather waist to strengthen the rear part and the supporting arch of the leather shoes, so that the leather shoe waist has certain elasticity to keep the position and shape of the sole and heel.
3. Heel: protect the outer part of the heel and the upper part of the joint from abrasion and damage, reduce the contact area between the sole and the ground, so as to reduce the thermal conductivity of the leather shoes, prevent the water on the ground from entering the shoes from the heel and the waist, and in addition, it has the function of absorbing the shock energy generated when the heel hits the ground. The height of the heel is suitable, so that the weight of the human body can be reasonably distributed in all parts of the foot, so as to improve the elasticity of the arch.
4. Inside Baotou: leather shoes are installed in Baotou to keep the shape of the toe and prevent wearing deformation. Some labour protects leather shoes to install steel plate to form Baotou, in order to ensure toe is not damaged.
Main heel: between the upper and the lining of the rear part of the shoe, the lower part is firmly integrated with the upper, the inner sole, the outsole and the heel to keep the heel part of the shoe in a fixed shape. The main heel keeps the feet in the right position in the shoes. The edge of the main heel is thin and elastic, and it can gently clip the upper part of the heel, and when shoes are worn, the shoes do not fall off with the feet.
The structure of leather shoes is different from that of the upper and sole. The main products are: suede sewing shoes, sticky leather shoes, sewing shoes, layering and suing leather shoes, Indian soft leather shoes, California leather shoes, molded shoes and molded shoes. Among them, molded shoes and molded shoes are combined with upper and inner sole while shoe sole and shoe heel are molded, molded by vulcanization and vulcanization, and thermoplastic materials (PVC, thermoplastic rubber, etc.) are molded by injection molding. In addition, there are also anti slit shoes, cut suture leather shoes, sticky joints and leather shoes.
In recent years, leather shoes made of leather and shoes are very popular. Early sports shoes and traditional leather shoes are basically the same in structure and material usage. With the development of sports, all kinds of sports events have special sports shoes, such as running shoes, high jump shoes, all kinds of ball games shoes, etc. At the same time, there are many new sports shoes, such as training shoes, tourist shoes and so on. This type of sports shoes has gone beyond the scope of pure competition sports shoes, more and more people use it as a general leather shoes.
Sneakers are usually made of adhesive technology. Because sports shoes must conform to the characteristics of all kinds of competitions and sports, to ensure that feet are free from injury and achieve good results, they are structurally different from traditional leather shoes.
The performance requires leather shoes not only to be fine in processing but also beautiful in appearance, and they should be comfortable and comfortable to wear, which will not affect the health of the feet, and help the feet to function normally.
Shape and size fit: the shape and size of leather shoes are important factors to fit the wearing. The shape and size of the two pairs of shoes and feet should be corresponding, but there are differences. The foot is a supporting organ and a motor organ. When walking, all parts of the foot are expanded, bent, stretched, contracted and so on. The leather shoes must adapt to these dynamic changes of the feet to fit the feet.
2. Moisture absorption and drainage performance is good: when the leather shoes are worn, the relative humidity inside the shoes is closely related to the comfort. If the upper, the lining and the bottom of the body are not good enough to absorb moisture and moisture, the sweat absorbed by them is very small. The relative humidity in the shoes will become larger and larger, and the comfort will decrease.
Other properties meet the requirements: leather shoes weight, flexure, cushioning, stability, foot and so on are also related to wearing comfort. The combination of leather and shoes, the quality of the materials used and the performance of leather shoes are also closely related. There are 100 ways to make hand-made shoes. The process of manufacturing leather shoes is much simpler than manual labor.
Developing trend
There are many kinds of leather shoes, different sizes, and often changing styles. Although mechanization and assembly production have been realized, it is still inseparable from manual operations. Therefore, the manufacture of leather shoes is not simply a mechanical process. It is the product of the close integration of the 3 aspects of artistry, designer's artistic creation and scientific research achievement. Leather shoes produced by different countries have their own style and characteristics, mutual influence and absorption, thus constantly emerging many new fashions. In the future, computer aided design and auxiliary manufacturing will be widely adopted in leather shoes production, and the performance of leather shoes machines will be improved.
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